Rhubarb Jelly

My mom's favorite jelly-making technique involves the microwave, a touch of sugar, seasonally appropriate fruit, a large Pyrex measuring bowl, and some plastic wrap. A quick zap and it's ready to be slathered on the nearest piece of freshly baked bread. Since I haven't owned a microwave since college, I had to go old school on my rhubarb. This method isn't quite as fast, but it's pretty darn simple.

Agave nectar is lower on the glycemic index and is therefore better for those who need to monitor their sugar intake. Use a smaller piece of ginger if you prefer a more subtle flavor. Adding the strawberries halfway through the cooking process keeps the flavors bright and improves the otherwise lackluster texture. This is a fairly loose jelly; use 1/4 cup water if you prefer a denser schmear.

Rhubarb Jelly
Makes 3 pints

9 large stalks rhubarb, ends trimmed and roughly chopped
1 piece (1/2 inch) ginger, finely chopped
1/2 cup water
3/4 cup agave nectar
Pinch of salt
1 pint strawberries, hulled and roughly chopped

1. In a flameproof casserole, combine all ingredients except strawberries. Bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes.
2. Stir in the strawberries. Cook, stirring frequently, for an additional 10 minutes, or until strawberries are mostly broken down. (The jelly will be sort of thick, but it will continue to thicken as it cools.)
3. Pour into jars. Store in the refrigerator.

Rice Pudding

There are few things that my brother loved as a child more than Kozy Shack Rice Pudding and Tapioca Pudding. I wasn't quite so fanatic, but I was known to sneak a spoonful or two from time to time. Ok, so maybe I ate the whole container. Who asked you? Anyway, last week, I was testing recipes. The recipe called for 5 cups cooked rice. I thought to myself, "Hmmm...I wonder how much raw rice that is..." I dumped 5 cups raw rice into the pot -- knowing that it would give me more than I wanted, but certain to have enough. Just between us, I made more rice than New Jersey has landfills. Since I abhor the idea of throwing out perfectly edible food, I got to thinking. Mmmmm....rice pudding. (For the record, I made so much rice that I also made a batch of congee.)

Now, rice pudding at the core isn't exactly healthy. Still, a co-worker presented me with an interesting thought. First, I made it. I know what I put in it. I controlled the process, and I attempted to use somewhat healthier alternatives. Yet, something that I have failed to consider until this point is that the actual process of making food - rice pudding, in this case - is keeping me active and up off the couch. If my fridge were stocked with Kozy Shack (as delicious as it may be), it would be world's easier to curl up under an afghan on the couch and put away the whole container without even the thought of exertion. I do, however, give you permission to lounge on the sofa, enjoying every last grain of your homemade rice pudding.

Rice Pudding
Serves 4

We chose basmati rice because of its lower glycemic index level. We also used date sugar, instead of cane sugar, for the same reason. Skim milk and heavy cream were what dairy we had on hand when the idea came to us. Feel free to use any combination of milk, cream etc that you have in your fridge. So that you are better informed than I was, 1 cup raw rice equals about 2 cups cooked rice!

1/4 cup currants
2 tablespoons brandy
4 cups cooked basmati rice
2 cups skim milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
Pinch salt
1/2 cup date sugar
1 vanilla bean, scraped
Pinch cinnamon

1. In a small bowl, plump currants with brandy for 20 minutes.
2. In a large flameproof casserole, combine all ingredients. Bring liquid to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes. Serve warm or chilled - but, I think it's best right out of the pot.

Gazpacho

Gazpacho is one of my favorite summer time treats. Savored with a crisp white wine under the heat of a blazing sun -- could there be anything better? Recent research also tells me that it pairs magnificently with a grilled cheese sandwich.

I realize that it is not yet summer (wishful thinking, I guess), even though today in sunny CA it is breezy and in the 70s - the kind of weather from which young romances blossom. The reason that I am posting this recipe unseasonably early is that I am prepping for a class that I will be teaching with Chef Becca Alonzi of Seasonal Elegance Catering. Beginning in June, Becca and I will be molding young minds (and hands) at Celsius and Beyond Summer Camp. Becca is the real mastermind behind the project, and I will be assisting her one day a week on Bread Day! Although gazpacho is not bread per se, it is derived from a tried and true method of using up dried out, crusty bread. So, there you have it. Tuck this one away in your virtual recipe box, and pull it out as soon as the sun begins to warm your neck of the world -- keeping the wine for yourself, of course, not the kids!

Gazpacho
Makes 1 Gallon

(Chop the veggies roughly. There is no need for perfection here since all will end up whirring in the blender.)

4 slices stale bread, chopped
10 tomatoes, cored and chopped
2 green bell peppers, stemmed, seeded and chopped
1 cucumber, chopped
1 red onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1/4 cup vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup water
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 cucumber, peeled and finely chopped (for garnish)

1. In a large bowl, combine all ingredients except for cucumber garnish.
2. Working in small batches, blend the soup in a food processor until smooth.
3. With a food mill or a fine mesh sieve, strain the soup.
4. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Garnish with cucumbers. Serve ice cold.

Great Food Where You Least Expect It

This week's Boston Globe contains a collection of stories detailing surprise food finds in very unexpected locales. Of course, I was champing at the bit to share my lunch consumed at an Argentinean gas station (see below, also). I've often found myself saying that I only eat McDonald's in foreign countries when I am experiencing palate fatigue from the strange food, and I long for something comforting. I hate to admit it, but McDonald's french fries fit the bill -- apparently Lane Turner feels the same way about the Golden Arches. The German tale takes me back to a high school trip that I took with my friend and her father. After 3 weeks of all the schnitzel, spaetzle and beer I could put away, I had gained 15 pounds! The blurb on Vienna and some of the former Eastern Block reminds me of the woes of vegetarians traveling in meat-centric societies like Europe or Argentina. And, finally, Turner's second entry where he regales the glory of fire-roasted bologna in the forest makes me think of a weekend trip to the Gold Coast of Spain. Two friends and I (spending the semester abroad) had splurged and rented a room at a 5-star hotel. Having blown our entire budget on lodging, we trudged to grocery store to dig up some cheap eats. We came back with American cheese, a loaf of bread, and a handle of Polish vodka - the best cheese sandwich I ever ate!

High-taste fuel
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | April 14, 2010

SAN JUAN, Argentina — We had hired a driver for the day, as was our custom. The mountain roads twist and turn and we were there to taste wine. Other than wineries, San Juan is a sleepy town in the northwest, not far from the Chilean border. Argentines had told us that nothing much happens here. We went anyway. The air conditioning inside the car was a welcome reprieve from the sweltering heat. Our driver, despite his Mercedes, was unkempt with wavy, wild hair and a worn red T-shirt. We asked him to take us somewhere for a good lunch. He whipped left and took off without a word.

He pulled into a YPF (Fiscal Petroleum Fields) service station. Maybe he needed to fill up? Then he motioned to the roadside restaurant beside the station.

Inside it was refreshingly icebox cold. Argentines have a national obsession with super chilled beer. We brushed past racks offering regional wines and sought out the tap. In this scorching heat, nothing less than a pitcher of clean, light Quilmes, the local brew, could quench our thirst. At the counter, we flipped through the plastic menu book. We were surprised to see so many Mexican dishes and even though we were curious about the burritos, we weren’t curious enough to order them. We opted instead for the local specialties and headed for a table.

A few minutes later, a waitress brought napkins and flatware. We sipped the delicious beer. Then she brought a basket of bread with aioli and marinated garlic, then a salad, piled with fire-engine-red tomatoes and crisp iceberg, dressed with oil and vinegar.

Then our entrees: milanesas de pollo, a cousin of chicken schnitzel and an Argentine specialty. This version came with a head of roasted garlic and peach chutney. The french fries were standard and good, accompanied by hash browns. There was also a sunny-side up egg, the yolk soft and runny, which made a dipping sauce for both fries and chicken.

We peeked through the blinds into the glaring sun and the whirling dust. Surrounded by absolute nothingness in a very unremarkable gas station, we were dining well.

Beef Stew to Baked Ziti

Braised beef raises profile of stew and baked ziti
By Karoline Boehm Goodnick, Globe Correspondent | April 7, 2010

All kinds of complex braised beef dishes have crept into the vast American recipe box. Sometimes the occasion calls for simplicity. This retro stew starts with beef chuck, a large, inexpensive cut with plenty of marbling, which softens by long, slow cooking. Brown pieces of the beef, stir in celery, onions, and tomato paste, and simmer gently. Instead of adding potatoes to the pot, roast red potatoes separately so you have a crisp texture to accompany the dish. Set aside some of the stew and finish the rest with a sprinkling of green peas.

The unadorned stew lends itself to the beginnings of a hearty Italian meat sauce. Canned tomatoes are the foundation of this ragu. Add body with tomato paste (you’ll have some left over from the stew). While the sauce bubbles, cook a pot of ziti. Layer the sauce and pasta with creamy ricotta and a mozzarella/Parmesan combo, which bakes into a golden crunchy crust. The transformation turns an American standard into a casserole any nonna would be proud to serve.

Beef stew with roast potatoes
Serves 4 with leftovers

POTATOES

4 red potatoes, each cut into 8 wedges
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet.

2. In a large bowl, toss the potatoes, rosemary, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Tip the potatoes out onto the sheet.

3. Roast them for 45 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

BEEF

4 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/4 cup flour
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 stalks celery, chopped
1 onion, chopped
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 3/4 cups water
1 cup frozen peas

1. In a large bowl, toss the beef, flour, salt, and pepper.

2. In a large flameproof casserole, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over high heat. Working in small batches, brown several pieces of the beef for 3 minutes on a side. Transfer to a plate. Brown the remaining beef the same way. Remove all the meat from the pan.

3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. When it is hot, add the celery and onion. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables soften.

4. Stir in the tomato paste. Add water and return the beef to the pan. Bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and cover the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour and 15 minutes or until the meat is tender when pierced with a fork. (Set aside 2 cups of the meat and sauce for baked ziti).

5. Stir the peas in the remaining mixture in the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Serve with the potatoes.

Baked ziti
April 7, 2010

Serves 4

Vegetable oil (for the dish)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup tomato paste
1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes
3/4 cup water
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 cups leftover beef stew, meat cut into shreds
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 pound dried ziti
1 pound fresh ricotta
4 ounces shredded mozzarella
1/2 cup grated Parmesan

1. Set the oven at 375 degrees. Lightly oil a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.

2. In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over high heat. Add onion and garlic. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until the onion softens. Stir in the tomato paste.

3. Add the tomatoes, water, oregano, and beef stew. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper.

4. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the ziti and cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until pasta is tender but still has some bite. Drain the pasta into a colander.

5. Pour about 1/3 of the tomato sauce into the baking dish. Add 1/2 the pasta, dot with 1/2 the ricotta and 1/3 of the mozzarella.

6. Add 1/3 of the sauce, the remaining pasta, the remaining ricotta and 1/3 of the mozzarella.

7. Add the remaining sauce, the remaining mozzarella, and the Parmesan.

8. Bake for 30 minutes or until the cheese is brown and the mixture is bubbling at the edges. Let the dish settle for 5 minutes before serving.

Non-nutritive Cereal Varnish

Here's the thing about unprocessed foods. They mold...or rot...or ferment (in a bad way). I'm currently in the process of pouring my moldy goat milk yogurt down the drain since I've been too busy to keep my kitchen properly stocked and rotated. Aaargh!
Signed,
Annoyed in San Francisco

(P.S. Props to anyone who gets the non-nutritive cereal varnish reference.)

Lasagna - The Old School Way

Yes, I understand that the above photo is more like spaghetti than lasagne, but we made them on the same day. And, while the lasagne looked (and tasted, I might add) fantastic, this photo won out. Surely, you can see why.

This dish is a labor of love. Feel free to incorporate only the "scratch" parts that interest you. For example, if you are much too tired to make pasta, use store-bought, but find the time to make the sauce. You get the idea.

The pasta recipe below will make about twice as much as you will need for this dish. You can either cut the recipe in half, or reserve the extra for making ravioli or spaghetti. It's probably better to go for the extra dough since you are already in the process of making pasta. Dry the noodles by hanging them over a rod, and then store in the freezer.

When you assemble the lasagne, don't fret too much about the layering. If I have failed to clearly articulate the idea, just be sure to end with a nice coating of sauce topped with a hearty dose of cheese - that's really all that matters!

Tomato Sauce

1 tablespoon olive oil
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
15 plum tomatoes, cored, halved, and squeezed free of seeds
Bouquet garni - sprig of thyme, sprig fresh oregano, 1 dried bay leaf (tied with twine)
1 cup red wine
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 bunch basil, finely chopped

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. In a large flameproof casserole, heat olive oil over high heat. Add onion and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes or until the onions start to become tender.
2. Add red pepper flakes, toasting for 1 minute to release the aromas.
3. Add tomatoes, bouquet garni, wine, and black pepper. Bring liquid to a boil.
4. Place the casserole in the oven, and cook for 45 minutes.
5. Stir, breaking up any large chunks. Season with salt and pepper. Remove and discard bouquet garni. Stir in basil.

Roasted Eggplant

2 medium eggplants
Olive oil, for drizzling
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Make sure the oven is still set at 400 degrees. Remove the top and bottom of each eggplant; discard. Cut both into 1/2 inch slices.
2. Place a wire cooling rack on a baking sheet. Lay out the slices of eggplant (it's ok if they overlap slightly). Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
3. Bake for 25 minutes or until tender.

Ricotta

6 1/4 cup skim milk
1 cup plain goat's milk yogurt (ok to sub cow's milk)
1 3/4 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup parmesan cheese

1. In a large pot, slowly bring milk, yogurt, cream, vinegar, and salt to a boil. Boil lightly for 2 minutes or until you can see visible curds forming.
2. Spoon the curds into a fine mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth. Pour the remaining liquid over the curds. Wrap the cheesecloth around the ricotta and squeeze to drain. Place a weighted object over the top and leave to drain for 30 minutes.
3. Stir in oregano, egg, and parmesan.

Whole Wheat Pasta

3 cups whole wheat pasta
1 cup all purpose flour
4 eggs
3/4 cup water
2 tablespoons olive oil
Pinch salt
Flour, for kneading

1. In a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine all of the ingredients. Mix on medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes or until the dough forms a ball.
2. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead for a minute or 2, or until the surface of the dough is smooth. Cover with plastic, and let it rest 10 minutes.
3. Using a pasta roller or a rolling pin, cut the dough into sections and roll to a paper thin consistency. (On our machine, this was #5, with 7 being the thinnest.) Cut the rolled dough into 12 pieces that are 3 inches by 9 inches. As you complete them, lay the pieces on a plate with waxed paper or parchment between each layer.

Lasagne assembly

Olive oil, for greasing
2 cups mozzarella
1/4 cup parmesan cheese

1. Set the oven to 350. Grease a 9x9 baking pan.
2. Begin by spooning 1/5 of the tomato sauce into the pan, spreading it to the edges. Top the sauce with three pieces of pasta, laid side by side to form a complete layer. Sprinkle 1/4 of the ricotta and some mozzarella on top of the pasta. Lay approximately 5 slices of eggplant across the cheese. Begin again with the sauce, and repeat until the pan is full. You should have 5 layers of sauce, 4 layers of pasta, 4 layers of ricotta, and 3 layers of eggplant. You will not use a fourth layer of eggplant, instead ending with sauce and the remaining mozzarella. Sprinkle the parmesan over the top.
3. Bake for 40 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling and the cheese is golden and crunchy.
4. Cool 5 minutes before slicing.